
Bunky's Cafe

Liz and I arrived in Madison, and it was well past dinnertime. We were both hungry, and Liz had researched restaurants with gluten-free options in Madison, settling on Bunky's Cafe as our destination even before our trip had begun. We rolled into Bunky's at around 7:30 in the evening, and the parking lot was packed, so we parked on a side street, which is not a big deal because Madison, thankfully, does not have the severe parking regulations that the Boston area does. We walked into the cafe and were greeted with the site of live belly dancing in the cafe! I was not expecting a belly dancer, but she made her way from table to table dancing to the beat playing over the music system. Our hostess seemed a bit overwhelmed by us walking in, as a couple other parties walked in behind us. There appeared to be seats available, but as I looked closer, places still needed to be cleared. They could have been slightly short-staffed, but they handled it well for the most part. Our hostess brought us through a hodge-podge of apparently randomly placed tables and chairs to a table in the far corner of the room, a great seat to gain perspective on all that was going on in the restaurant.
Liz and I looked around, at the decor on the walls and in all of the nooks and crannies. There was a wall of Victorian-style weather-worn mirrors next to us, and the rest of the restaurant followed suit. It was almost like a rummage sale exploded in the store, leaving us with the feeling that can only be described as Victorian Kitsch. That is not a bad thing, mind you, and lent itself to an artsy feeling in the cafe.

Our waitress came to the table, and seemed genuinely friendly, which I always appreciate, and proceeded to list off a tasty sounding array of specials. First, we started off with drinks, Liz with lemonade, and I with a Spotted Cow Ale, a local Wisconsin brew that the waitress endorsed as her husband's favorite. The ale was made by the New Glarus Brewing Company and was light and refreshing. The head of the beer was very short lived, so weak that I wasn't able to capture it with my camera. It had the color of a blonde-honey, and was slightly cloudy. It was fresh tasting, very crisp, and it had an interesting flavor that I couldn't put my finger on for the longest time, but eventually it came to me. The ale had flavors of wheat and malt, but the unusual flavor was one of fresh corn, and I must say that it was enjoyable and refreshing.

When the waitress asked about food, I asked if the stuffed shrimp could be made gluten-free, and she said that they were one of two things on the menu that could not, but after that tip off, she was very sensitive to the fact that one of us had a food allergy, and she asked which of us it was. This waitress impressed me. When she had her answer, she made sure to tailor our meal requests accordingly. Elizabeth got a 10-inch pizza with broccoli, red onions, olives, fresh tomatoes, and mozzarella cheese on a gluten-free crust by The Silly Yak, a local gluten-free bakery.

I decided on one of the day’s specials, a slow-cooked Moroccan-spiced lamb shank on a bed of white beans with a side of lentil soup. Liz's pizza arrived on a pedestal, and looked fantastic. She was very pleased with the flavors, and also of the texture of the gluten-free crust, which can definitely be hit or miss, but was spot on here.

The lentil soup was thick and hearty, and was topped with a spicy mixture that jazzed it up quite a bit. I was glad that the bowl was a smaller portion, as it was quite rich. Also, if there had been more, I may not have been able to conquer the huge portion of lamb shank that I was presented with. The lamb was fantastic. It was perfectly seasoned, and just fell off the bone. It was moist, flavorful, savory, and there wasn't even a hint of that gamey flavor that lamb can sometimes hold. The waitress told me that it had been slow-cooked for hours, and the effort showed in the final product. This was the best lamb I have ever had, and I have eaten some very good lamb. It even beat out the magnificent lamb I had in Provincetown at the Crowne Pointe Inn, and that is tough to do.

After our entrees, Liz and I ordered a slice of chocolate mousse pie (also gluten-free) with two forks, as we were both pretty full already. The pie was pulled from a pastry case in the front of the store that labeled all of the desserts with letters on Scrabble trays, a very unique and clever system. The thick mousse pie was drizzled with chocolate sauce and had a chocolate crust, and it was very good and decadent. Though Liz liked her pizza a great deal, this pie took the cake for her.
All in all, we had a great and fun experience at this restaurant. The environment was quirky, that wait staff was friendly and knowledgeable, and the food was excellent. Liz was very pleased that a restaurant would go out of their way to cater to those stricken with gluten intolerance in every area of the menu, from breads and pasta, to desserts. Additionally they are staffed by a cadre of knowledgeable waiters and waitresses. Don't miss Bunky's if you are ever in the Madison area. This is a great place. Just make sure that you have cash on you, as this restaurant does not accept credit or debit cards. However, this too is endearing, as they have an explanation as to why, and they do it more in support of restaurants not having to pay fees to the credit card giants than just because. Kudos, Bunky's, for standing up for the little guys and for being the model of a good local restaurant.
© 2006 - 2007 The Connoisseurs.com All Rights Reserved